Town Talk: Pizza! Pizza! Not your typical pizza chains
Most Northsiders are likely familiar with the phrase “Pizza! Pizza!” from the TV commercial promoting a national pizza chain. Yet (and to our benefit), we won’t find that pizza chain on the Northside. What we do have are several great pizza shops within walking distance to many of our homes. This column is about three of them.
Riviera Pizza & Pasta is one of those great pizza shops located in Spring Garden, with its tiny, yet welcoming store front tucked within this residential area. Returning home from an evening show at a downtown theatre (and regrettably not eating dinner before), my husband and I discovered most eateries on the Northside had closed. From a quick search on the internet, we found that Riviera Pizza & Pasta was open late and delivered. What a bonus!
Riviera Pizza & Pasta is a family-run business established in 2011 by Dave Sarkarov. Dave immigrated to the United States from Uzbekistan in 2004 and while working at a downtown pizza place, saw that many of his deliveries were to the Northside. Seeing a business opportunity, Dave decided to open his own pizza shop on the Northside. Dave says he strives to “always keep his price affordable” and takes pride in encouraging his workers to “make the food as if they were making it for themselves to eat.” Dave is emphatic that anything that can be prepared “homemade” is prepared that way at Riviera Pizza & Pasta.
Riviera Pizza & Pasta offers an extensive menu from daily pizza specials to generously portioned salads, appetizers, hoagies and, of course, pasta. Yet, according to Dave, their most popular item is their “homemade cheesy breadsticks.” Dave claims it’s the special homemade bread (not pizza dough) used to make the breadsticks that customers love. If you have ever had pizza delivered that arrived cold then you won’t be disappointed when you order from Riviera Pizza & Pasta. Your pizza will arrive piping hot and in typical Pittsburgh fashion, with homemade ranch dressing! If you enjoy jalapeno poppers as I do, do not hesitate to have these crunchy pockets of goodness also delivered. They arrived at my home as if they were just pulled out of the deep fryer. Yum!
New Northside residents always seem to find their way to Federal Street and discover that you can buy pizza by the slice at Badamo’s Pizza. When we moved to the Northside in 2018, that’s exactly what my husband and I did, and boy were we hooked! “Badamo’s” (as locals call it) is one of the few pizza shops where you can enjoy a “square” (Sicilian style) or pizza slice or order an entire pie! Yet there’s much more to Badamo’s.
Anthony Badamo, the owner of Badamo’s Pizza, is no stranger to pizza or to the Northside. Anthony’s great-grandparents (who were originally from Palermo, Sicily) and relatives lived on the Northside and his pizza-making days started as “pizza parties” he would throw for his friends out of his home in the early 2000’s.
On one of his regular trips to the Northside to visit family, he discovered a building for sale on Federal Street which he purchased. In 2017, “Badamo’s Northside” was born.
Anthony felt that the Northside was “underserved when it came to food” which also led him to the decision to open a pizza shop here.
During the pandemic, customers became used to the idea of ordering or picking up food from the Badamo’s service window. After a recent renovation in December 2022, Badamo’s has returned to permitting patrons to enter the shop to order and pick up food.
Anthony says the secret to his success is to “keep it simple,” “support local” and “source the best stuff” to make food “as tasty as possible.” Anthony brings produce into his shop multiple times a week to ensure its freshness as evidenced by the crisp, delicious (and generously portioned sized) mixed greens salad which is the perfect accompaniment to his pizza and hoagies.
According to Anthony, the most popular pizza ordered is a “classic thin plain or pepperoni pizza” which supports his mantra, “keep it simple.” Badamo’s also serves delicious hoagies (the steak and cheese is a customer favorite — mine too!) and classic garlic knots, whose ingredients are” properly sourced” to give his customers the finest product possible.
Next, take a stroll down East Ohio Street and you will come across the Deutschtown pizza shop called Lillen’s Pizza and Restaurant. I have enjoyed Lillen’s pizza at many events, yet it was not until a recent Christmas party where their pizza was again served, that I came to know that the delicious, traditional style pizza was from Lillen’s. However, this is no ordinary pizza shop.
Mohammad Munir (affectionately known as “Billo”) who is originally from Pakistan, purchased Lillen’s from his brother in 1985. By the way, “Lillen” is the combined name of the husband and wife who originally owned the shop and whose name has been kept by the Munir family.
Longtime manager Karen Ryan prefers to refer to Lillen’s as “a restaurant that serves pizza.” Their eat-in or take out restaurant boasts a menu chock-full of items such as hoagies, pizza slices for $2, entire pies and, surprisingly, breakfast! Karen and 20-year employee Lynn Thomas made me aware that the chicken is their customers’ favorite and they come from miles around to order it.
Karen and Lynn also tell me that because Lillen’s has been a Northside staple, many customers who came into the shop as children, “come back as adults” during the holidays to take in their favorite pizza, order up a few wings or say hello to “Billo.”
Because I must have looked like a “doubting Thomas” (or to prove to me that their customers’ opinion about the chicken was accurate), Karen had me sample the wings. I am so glad she did! Lillen’s serves full wings that are distinctly flavorful and packed with meat. No skimpy, boney wings are served at Lillen’s and they also deliver to the Northside. What more can you ask for?
Well, one thing is definitely true — the Northside is a wonderful melting pot where people from anywhere can call it home. So instead of cooking tonight, order up a pizza or two (or chicken wings or a hoagie) and support our Northside pizza eateries.